Thinking of skiing Hokkaido in December? Start at Niseko, Furano and Rusutsu. Fewer crowds and fresh snowfall make an early-season trip well worth it.
December in Hokkaido really means two Decembers. The first half is a winter lover’s dream: the snow has arrived, the crowds haven’t, and the powder is so light and dry you float through it. Then Christmas and New Year arrive, and Niseko becomes the most glamorous lift queue on earth.
If you’re like us, you’ll agree that true luxury is never having to chase the snow. No matter which time you come in December, that’s virtually guaranteed in Hokkaido. New snow rolls in every few days, so the mountain wipes itself clean overnight, and the early risers claim an untracked run most mornings (the lie-in crowd can fight over what’s left). Niseko alone collects more than 10 metres a year, which means fresh powder on repeat.
Whether you’re toying with the idea of an early-season trip or a splash-out festive holiday in Hokkaido, you’re in for a treat. Here’s our round-up of the best ski areas across Niseko, Furano and Rusutsu to explore in December, plus where to stay in each.
Base yourself right: 8 Best Ski Chalets in Hokkaido For Stylish Snow Holidays
NISEKO
Everyone’s heard of Niseko (even those who have never skied), and we’re here to tell you the hype holds up. Four resorts — Grand Hirafu, Hanazono, Annupuri, and Niseko Village — stitch into one enormous winter playground. By mid-December, the base is deep enough to make grown adults giggle. Despite temperatures hitting below zero, the only real hardship is choosing between one more run and an early onsen soak.
Grand Hirafu
Hirafu is the loud yet lovely heart of Niseko. Expect exhilarating tree runs, amazing night skiing, and an après-ski scene that is, hands down, the best in Japan. This is where the powder faithful gather, so the lift lines are the longest around, but they form for a reason: a bad day here still outclasses a good one almost anywhere else. Ski hard, eat well, and let the morning alarm be tomorrow’s problem.
Where to stay: The Maples Niseko
The Maples Niseko sits in Upper Hirafu with ski-in, ski-out access, so the first lift is as close as the coffee pot (and if you want a proper flat white, the % Arabica kiosk is just across the street).
Inside, the apartments run from studios to four-bedroom penthouses with warm timber and deep soaking baths. Mount Yotei and the Hirafu slopes are framed in the glass — it’s the sort of view that you could look at all day long. You barely need to leave for dinner, either: Roketto serves Singaporean noodles by day and a sumptuous omakase by night. Craving comfort food? Ristorante Pizzeria R Niseko downstairs is a safe bet.
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Hanazono
Hanazono is Hirafu’s better-behaved sibling, with mellow groomers up top and cheeky tree runs below. It catches the morning sun, moves at a friendlier pace, and forgives the odd wobble, which the little ones (and the rusty) rather appreciate. Short lift lines, long lunches… what’s not to like?
Where to stay: Tsubasa at Hanaridge
Tsubasa, a five-bedroom chalet with a private onsen, was named Japan’s Best Ski Chalet at the 2024 World Ski Awards. It looks beautiful in photographs and looks even better once you’re inside lounging in the living room and gazing out to the snow-covered landscapes as far as the eye can see. Hanazono’s runs are just on the doorstep, and your very own butler sorts out the rest — like your hot sake to be savoured by the crackling fire.
Refuel afterwards: There’s No Place Like HOKKAIDian Homestead: Inside Hokkaido’s Most Intimate Gourmet Experience
Annupuri
Annupuri is located at the western end of Niseko and is the most relaxed of all the resorts. Think: wide tree-lined runs, long sunset views, and the shortest lift lines on the mountain. It’s the low-key gateway to the backcountry, too, if you have the guide and the nerve.
Where to stay: Song Saa
Song Saa is a six-bedroom chalet tucked in the trees near the Annupuri lifts, made for families and groups who want the mountain without the melee. Timber interiors, a traditional tatami room and big windows onto the snow make this quite a lovely alpine home.
Niseko Village
Niseko Village is centred on Niseko-yo, a compact dining strip that lights up after dark. A ski-in, ski-out gondola runs from the doorstep with gentle slopes and everything in one place. It’s a low-fuss base, perfect for beginners and families.
In case you missed it: Chalet of the Week: Yuki Drift Niseko, A Brand New Chalet Made For Slow Days and Fast Runs
FURANO
Furano may be lesser known, but it’s on the up so it’s good to visit before travellers come in droves. The reason? The snow falls drier, the skies clear more often, and it still has that authentic Japanese town feel. The mountain comes in two parts: the Furano Zone and the Kitanomine Zone, joined by a ridge and a gondola.
Kitanomine Zone
Kitanomine is the livelier, more local side, with long groomers and fairly empty pistes. Queues are counted in seconds, and the dry snow holds its shape well past lunch. The whole place refuses to take itself too seriously, and when your legs give out, everyone’s favourite soup curry spot and other small bars are a short drive away.
Where to stay: Fenix Furano
Fenix Furano drops you a short slide from the gondola, on the light, dry snow Furano regulars keep on talking about. The apartments are sleek and low-key, with big windows, deep soaking tubs and a ski room that keeps the wet gear out of the living room.
Want more space to misbehave? Shiyuki up the road is a stylish two-storey modern chalet with room to spare.
Learn more: Chalet of the Week: Shiyuki
RUSUTSU
Every ski instructor raves about Rusutsu, but thankfully it still feels like a secret. Rusutsu is what Niseko was before the crowds arrived: the same deep Japow, minus the queues so it feels like you have a mountain resort mostly to yourself. Three mountains — West, East and Mount Isola — link into gladed runs perfect for those up for a challenge.
Mount Isola
Mount Isola is the pick of the three, with long ridgelines and trees that stay untracked far longer than they should. On a clear day, Mount Yotei fills the view, and every run drops you back at the base for another go. Here, “one last run” is a promise nobody manages to keep.
Where to stay: The Vale Rusutsu
Crowned as the World’s Best Ski Hotel at the 2024 World Ski Awards, The Vale Rusutsu is the only ski-in, ski-out address that makes the mountain feel like your own. Roll out of bed, click in, and Mount Isola is yours before the Sapporo day-trippers have found the car park. Fluffy powder mostly to yourself, big mountain-facing rooms, and a hot soak for the aftermath, you’ll probably have a hard time leaving this gem of a place.
BOOK EARLY, SKI FIRST
December is not for the ditherers. If you’re looking for an early-season winter holiday, the key is to book early. Our winter specials make the decision-making easy. Sort the dates, watch the forecast, and let Hokkaido do the rest.
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