Hokkaido is Japan’s pantry — the northern island grows more of what the country eats than any other prefecture, which is why the rest of Japan travels north for it.
The clearest way to understand the place is to eat from it directly. HOKKAIDian Homestead is built around that idea; co-founders Ian Fong and Noriko Matsushita run a culinary experience grounded in what grows on their land and how the region has always cooked it.
Ian and Noriko left Hong Kong finance and Tokyo city life to raise their daughters on a Hokkaido farm. Their land sits on a hillside between Mount Usu — still an active volcano — and Lake Toya, on soil enriched by centuries of volcanic ash. It’s why the produce here tastes the way it does.
Noriko runs the workshops and the plating. Each session opens with tea she’s brewed from herbs cut that morning in the garden. Ian takes guests through the cooking — the steps, the techniques, what’s on the plate and where on the farm it came from.
We sat down with Ian to talk about farm life and what comes next for Hokkaidian Homestead.
What is the inspiration behind HOKKAIDian Homestead?
The concept of HOKKAIDian Homestead first came to me after I left Hong Kong and began working with local farmers and fishermen. They were so kind and generous in sharing their knowledge and expertise with me. I wanted to share my experience with others.
I discovered folks like Dan Barber through his inspiring TED Talks and celebrity chef Hugh Fearnley of River Cottage. These iconic figures and their work provided me with a guideline of how to shape HOKKAIDian Homestead. I wanted to turn it into a place where guests could take their time to prepare and enjoy great food, and more importantly, be with friends and family.
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Can you tell us about how your interest in food developed?
From an early age, I was fascinated by the way my mom, and occasionally, my dad took great time and effort to prepare delicious food for sharing with family and friends. It is that communal aspect of eating that I find so fulfilling. In most of my happiest memories, there is food involved.
Why did you choose to leave banking and Hong Kong behind?
My wife, Noriko, and I were driven by the hope that our daughters would grow up with a sense of wonder and appreciation for the world in which we live. We believe that raising them in a community with a strong connection to nature is one of the best ways to do that. We were fortunate to have found that community here in Hokkaido.
From the time we made that decision, it became an easy choice for me to pursue my dream of working in food. Hokkaido, with its natural resources and its abundance of great seasonal foods, is the perfect place.
Why did you decide to set up in Uchiura Bay in particular?
The Date-Toya area where we are located is blessed with the protection of the Uchiura Bay. The bay gives this area comparatively mild climates and plenty of sunshine year round. Over the millennia, the nearby Mount Usu volcano has provided this area with very fertile farmland and a nutrient-rich bay. This, in turn, is how we are able to source very high-quality foods from both the land and the sea.
As to the specific location of HOKKAIDian Homestead, we are on a serene hill surrounded by beautiful farmland overlooking the Uchiura Bay. Also in our direct line of sight are the iconic Mount Usu, Showa Shinzan, Nakajima Island of Lake Toya and Mount Yotei. This vantage point reminds us of the close relationship we share with the nature that surrounds us.
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Can you describe to us your typical work-day?
On most days, I’m up before 6 am. If we are welcoming guests to the Homestead that day, I will make my rounds picking up ingredients for the day.
Then we are back at the Homestead to get things ready. I set up the ingredients and the outdoor space, and Noriko makes sure things are prepared indoors for our guests.
On days when we are not open for guests, after visiting our local farmers’ market to see what’s in season, I will spend the day testing seasonal menus for our various guest programs.
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What do you hope your guests to take away from a visit to the Homestead?
At HOKKAIDian Homestead we focus on food that is farmed or sourced responsibly and ethically. In sharing these delicious foods in a beautiful setting so close to nature, we hope our guests will be reminded of our relationship with nature and reconnect with life’s simple pleasures.
What type of events do you host?
We run four-hour cooking workshops regularly. We use fresh seasonal ingredients that are sourced locally, preparing meals with fantastic meat and vegetables from our area.
Sometimes, we can organise some foraging but it depends on the season. In fall, we do an ikura curing experience catered to the group size, separating the roe from salmon skein. In winter, the kids can go sledding here. We also started offering a snowshoeing option last winter.
What is your favourite part of the business?
There are many things I love about what we do! From working with people who are knowledgeable and passionate about food, to spending a good amount of time doing physical labour.
The most fulfilling has to be my interactions with the guests; sharing what I’ve learned about Hokkaido food, preparing food together, guiding them around the grounds of the Homestead. The absolute best part is seeing their happy smiles.
What’s the best time of year to visit you?
All four seasons in Hokkaido are spectacular; each in their own way. Anytime is a good time at the Homestead!
How can people reach the Homestead if they’re to come for a visit from Niseko?
HOKKAIDian Homestead is about an hour away from Niseko by car. It’s a scenic drive that brings you through beautiful Lake Toya. In the winter, local professional transfers would be a good choice for those not accustomed to driving in snow. The good folks at The Luxe Nomad can certainly help with arrangements.
To learn more about HOKKAIDian Homestead, you can visit their website, Facebook page or Instagram.
Hungry for more? Read these and plan your next gourmet getaway:
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