The creative brain behind Bali’s renowned restaurant MASONRY. talks about his exciting new chapter in Hokkaido.
Simplicity is beauty — that’s a maxim that’s true about almost everything. It also applies to the way chef Ben Cross approaches food and how he founded his successful restaurant group.
The renowned Australian chef first fell in love with the idea of a culinary career in high school. “I saw it more as a fun thing to do rather than work. My first job quickly burst that bubble,” he says, laughing. He began life on the pass in his native country and then moved to the Island of the Gods in 2008 to work at KU DE TA.
“When I arrived, there were a lot of great eateries that were serving simple yet very tasty food, which has evolved into some of the best chefs in the industry opening restaurants,” Ben says. “This includes a long list of Balinese and Indonesian chefs who now operate some of my favourite venues.”
He struck out on his own in 2018, establishing MASONRY. in Canggu, a restaurant that quickly became a must-visit. The winning formula? Going back to the basics — a handmade, honest approach to cooking coupled with an atmosphere made for lingering.
“After cooking in different venues for so many years, I just wanted to get back to the grassroots of cooking,” Ben says. “For me that meant two main things: cooking over fire and making as much as we could by hand. There’s a real satisfaction in creating something from raw products that you’d normally just buy from a provider,” he shares.
The ever-curious chef-entrepreneur also doesn’t pass up a chance to travel across the world, including to Japan, which he visits regularly for sampling food and snowboarding. “The thing that fascinates me now is travelling and looking at traditional cooking in different regions,” he says. “After hundreds of years of evolution, the old classics and techniques still stand strong.”
We speak to him about his culinary journey and get a peek behind the curtain at MASONRY.’s first international venture in Japan, a ski-in, ski-out restaurant in Niseko Kyo.
You worked for and with many influential figures in the culinary industry. Who continues to inspire you today?
I think it would have to be Neil Perry. He was one of the key people to shape Australia’s food scene and has had some of the best restaurants in Australia. The most impressive thing is that he is still at the top of his game with venues like Margaret, his bistro in Sydney.
Let’s talk about Japan, specifically Hokkaido. How did you first discover it and what draws you to return every year to Niseko?
I try to spend at least one month snowboarding each year, in two to three parts of Japan. I first went to Niseko to do a collaboration with the Mandala Club Bali, and while there I fell in love with the region — exploring different mountains and local food.
Read also: Hot Table: MASONRY. Japan, a Ski-in, Ski-out Restaurant at Niseko Kyo
View this post on Instagram
What did you think when the opportunity to open in Niseko came about?
Well, I was like a kid at Christmas time! I couldn’t wipe the smile off my face! In Hokkaido, there are a plethora of amazing ingredients. It’s well known for having some of the best seafood in the world, as well as its dairy. I’m excited about creating dishes using the local quality pork, Wagyu beef, potatoes and corn, to name a few. It’s about tapping into what’s unique while keeping true to the MASONRY. style.
Can you share how you shaped the culinary offering at MASONRY. to create a true taste of your ethos and the locality as well?
For me, MASONRY. Japan had to feel like MASONRY. Bali, but also belong to Niseko. We really wanted to create a sense of ownership for the local community, so it feels like it’s their own — a place they’re proud to bring people to.
The ethos has always been simple food done properly, with a big focus on fire cooking and things made by hand. In Japan we’ve taken that a step further by putting an even bigger emphasis on locally sourced ingredients, so the menu truly reflects Niseko and Hokkaido.
We’ve built the menu around what Hokkaido does best — scallops, oysters, and seafood straight from the coast, incredible Wagyu and pork, and some of the best dairy you’ll find anywhere. We’re making our own halloumi with local milk, and using produce like potatoes and corn that Hokkaido is famous for. The idea is to showcase the region through our style — sharing plates, house-made elements and honest flavours — so people feel both the spirit of MASONRY. and the taste of Niseko on the table.
View this post on Instagram
What can we look forward to in terms of design and ambience?
The venue is MASONRY. through and through, but with an alpine feel to it. We had a lot of fun working on the design — the goal was to keep it minimal but still full of warmth. Our designer Val has an amazing touch and a real ability to take loose ideas then translate them into something tangible in the space.
The restaurant is centred around an open kitchen that flows into a 10-seater cocktail bar, so there’s constant energy running through the room. We added layers with different textures — reclaimed Japanese wood, velvet curtains, custom teak furniture, dark brown leathers, and a custom lighting feature, with candlelight to give it that warm, intimate glow.
The finishing touch will be artwork from some of our favorite photographers around the world, giving it personality and a global edge. And honestly, the crowd makes up part of the design too. Once the space fills with people, that’s when it really comes alive.
The vibe is incredibly important when eating out. What is your secret to creating cool spaces that people want to spend time in?
We always prefer to have a partially open kitchen, as I find it adds energy to the room. That meets the bar, where the bar team will be slinging out cocktails with a little banter for those who are up for it.
Dim lighting, good tunes — music is always subjective — and a fast-paced buzz are key. We’re not aiming for quiet, polished fine-dining — we want that refined chaos where the room has life, energy and atmosphere, and people just want to stick around.
This is your first venture outside Indonesia. What’s next for your restaurant group?
I’d love to focus on more projects in the Hokkaido region as it makes sense for us rather than spreading too thin. It would also be great to find a summer project in Japan, so our full-time staff can rotate between both venues and have work year-round.
Lastly, what is the first thing you eat when you arrive in Japan and what do you crave after a long day in the snow?
The first thing I go for when I land in Japan is a full FamilyMart dégustation! There are so many good things in one small shop. If I want to step it up a notch, Wagyu or pork shabu-shabu is hands down my all-time favourite thing to eat in Japan.
After a long day on the mountain, though, it’s always the same routine — beer, ideally a Suntory Premium Malt. There’s nothing better than peeling off the gear, sinking into a chair and having that first cold sip.
MASONRY. Japan at Niseko Kyo opens on December 8, 2025. Learn more on masonryjapan.com and reserve a table on https://www.tablecheck.com/en/masonry-japan/reserve